Gauge – The stuff You Really NEED to Know

A woman called me yesterday morning looking for a single ball of yarn. Someone had “calculated” how much yarn she would need using some computer program. I incidentally asked her if she had been asked to knit a gauge swatch. She said that she had not. How could someone determine how much NOVELTY yarn she needed without a gauge swatch??????

Before continuing, let me explain gauge swatches in layman terms. A gauge swatch is a starting point. On all ball bands (or shall I say on most ball bands, just to be safe), information is provided regarding the number of stitches and rows per 10 cm or 4 inches. This is MERELY a suggestion. It gives you an idea of what the yarn can do. It is not the Holy Grail. It is based on the results of however many knitters (or crocheters) were participating in the process and reflects THEIR collective gauges. NONE OF US KNIT OR CROCHET TO GAUGE EVERY TIME. It would be impossible. It would imply that we all knit or crochet the same way with the same tension, which is an impossibility.

If we accept this concept of gauge being a suggestion, it is incumbent upon the individual to ensure the success of the project in two very simple ways. The first, which I will not spend time on is KNOW YOUR ACCURATE SIZE. There is nothing worse than spending time, enthusiasm, and resources on a project that just doesn’t fit. As with sewing, be brutally honest as to your size. It will make you much happier when you complete the project.

The second “insurance policy” is to spend time knitting or crocheting a gauge swatch. Knit or crochet a piece that exceeds the 4” X 4” measuring area. As you are creating the swatch, be sure that you like the “hand” of the fabric that you are creating. The “hand” is the drape that is created because of the relationship between the needles and the yarn. If the fabric feels “hard”, use a larger needle. If the fabric feels too drapey and loose, reduce your needle size. Do keep in mind that different needle companies produce different American sized needles. I’ve made it a point to use the metric needle sizes suggested by ball bands and patterns to avoid this problem. (An example of this is that an American size 10 ½ needle can range anywhere from a 6 ½ mm – 7 ½ mm, depending on the manufacturer.) If the suggested gauge produces fabric that is hard or flimsy, the finished product will not be optimal. Create a “hand” that feels right to you and go from there.

Now knit or crochet the actual swatch using the needle that gives you the desired outcome. When you are finished, don’t bind off – run some yarn through the live stitches. This way you can tear out the swatch at the project’s conclusion and use it for seaming or other finishing techniques. Allow the piece to rest. This is a technique that machine knitters practice and it makes good sense. The yarn is stressed during the crochet or knitting process and allowing it to rest gives the fibers time to assume a more natural state. Lightly block the swatch if you intend to block the finished object. (Blocking is to knit/ crochet as pressing is to fine tailoring!) Now measure a 4x4” (10 x 10 cm) block on the gauge swatch. Count stitches across and rows. You now have YOUR gauge for the specific yarn.

Once you’ve gotten this information (and you’ve written it down in a safe place!), you might want to use the following free tool: The Knitting Companion.

To quote the developer, “This program converts a knitting pattern stitch gauge (such as you would find in a knitting magazine) to your knitted swatch gauge. After your swatch gauge information is entered; it can calculate the number of stitches and rows you need to knit for a given number of inches. This permits you to take measurements for a garment, do a swatch, and convert the measurements to stitches and rows.”

This certainly takes a little time (and I mean just a little time!). It should take you no longer than an hour or so and this is certainly less time than it would take to rip out a garment. It certainly will take less time than the hours of complaining (Am I the only one who does this ?) about the reasons that your project did not fit!

Gauge is one of the simplest things that one can do to help ensure a great garment. It is not time consuming. It enables you to enjoy the new yarn and learn the nuances of the fibers. Especially with novelty yarns, creating a gauge swatch helps you understand the properties of the yarn. It will also help you to decide more accurately about coordinating yarns for ribbing or other trim. Novelty yarns do not always look the same when knit or crocheted and the swatching process will ultimately contribute to a more “professional” look.

I guess the best way to summarize this whole discussion is with a quote that is boldly posted at K1C2: “I always knit (crochet) to gauge.” Not one of us passes it without a humble smile!

Sue@yarnxpress.com